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The visit to West Sumatra usually starts in Padang,
the provincial capital and air sea gateway to
the Land of the Minang. Padang is the provincial
capital of West Sumatra and the principal gateway
to the Minang highlands. The city, which has a
population approaching 500.000, has grown at the
rate of more than 10% a year over the past ten
years, and Padang's port, which is 6 km south
of the city, is the largest on Sumatra 's West
Coast. Ships call here to load rubber, cinnamon,
cement and coal mine at Ombilin in the highlands.
The main attraction in downtown Padang is the
Provincial Museum (Adhityawarman) at Jl. Pangeran
Diponegoro 10, next to The Culture Centre. The
museum stands in a park and is built in the traditional
Minang style known as Gajah Maharam. Collections
include prehistoric artifacts, stamps, imported
ceramics, manuscript, modern art and ethnographic
displays of the Minang and the peoples of the
Mentawai Islands, which lies to the west off Padang's
coast. One gallery is devoted to artifacts connected
with Minang ceremonies such as weddings, funerals
and investiture of village leaders, another displays
implements used in agriculture, crafts, Islamic
worship and other daily activities. The Taman
Budaya cultural center holds periodic art and
cultural exhibitions.
Historic Padang
It is pleasant just to wander through
the older parts of Padang, especially the area
around Kampung Cina (Chinatown), south of the
central business and hotel district, where turn-of-the-century
houses line the streets. Start from Jl. Hiligoo
and continue south along Jl. Pondok and Jl. Niaga.
On these streets, you can find Chinese herbalist
and coffee shops with distinctive inlaid tiles,
hardwood floors and teak furnishings that serve
cool drinks during the heat of the day. At the
southern end of Jl. Niaga, turn right (west) along
the river through the Muara District (meaning
"estuary"), past the old colonial waterfront
where small cargo vessels still dock. Stroll by
century-old warehouses loaded with fragrance Cinnamon
and other spices awaiting shipment to Jakarta
and Singapore. This wharf saw its glory days in
the 1920s, when coffee production reached at peak
in the Minang Highland. Hand-paddled ferries cross
the sluggish Batang Arau river from here, which
is full of small boats and a sight in itself.
On the other side you can follow a footpath to
the Chinese cemetery up on the hillside, where
you have a splendid late-afternoon view of the
waterfront and the city. The hill, call Bukit
Monyet or Monkey Hill, use to be favorite subject
of 19th century Dutch Artists. To the west of
here standing guard at the mouth of Batang Arau
and overlooking the sea, is a perfectly form hill
known as Gunung Padang. A path leads up to Siti
Nurbaya Park at the top (named after the heroine
of an early Indonesian novel), where you can find
the remains of an old bunker and the Dutch triogonometrical
point for all early surveys of West Sumatra. Near
the base of the hill is a World War II Canon,
which still points across the harbor entrance.
Beaches and Coral Islands
From Padang Hill, a path leads south
about 4 kilometer and an hour's walk along the
coast to the areas Air Manis (lit.: Sweet Water).
The beach can also be reached by direct Minibus
from the downtown Terminal, but avoid on Sunday,
when it is usually crowded. At low tide, wade
across to a little islet just offshore. On the
beach, Bapak Chili offers basic accommodation
and food. A better restaurant has recently opened
at the southern end of the beach, and also offers
rooms at moderate prices. The beach borders a
fishing village, and is associated with a popular
legend about a young Man, Malin Kundang, who rose
from humble origins to become a reach merchant
overseas. When his mother heard that he had comeback
with his ship, she prepared his favorites food,
and wearing her best clothes went to his ship
to meet him, however, Malin Kundang felt ashamed
of his mother, who was old and toothless by this
time, and whose best attire consisted of nothing
but a few rags. He pretended not to know her,
and ordered his crew to cast her away. His mother's
heart broke and she cursed him. As the ship went
off, thunder flash and lightning roared, and the
ship sunk. Everyone aboard perished and were turned
to stone a coral outcropping at the beach is said
to be their remains.
Bungus
Is another small village, 20 km. South
of Padang and is the most popular beach among
the local Padang people. It is situated on a lovely
bay with calm water and a good beach, a section
of which has been made into a resort. From Bungus
you can hire a small outrigger to visit the coral
islands have some shade, but a high tide there
is often just a narrow fringe of sand left between
the water and the rocks. Sirandah Island, farthest
out to the west, has little shade but is the only
one without a rocky core so that you can walk
across it. Wonderful white sand beaches, sometimes
interrupted by rocky outcrops or huge boulders
ring all the islands, and all are encircled by
colorful coral reefs. Another good beach is Pasir
Jambak, which lies north of Padang pass the airport.
To get there, take a direct bemo, or watch for
the signboard saying "Pasir Jambak"
about 2 km past the airport, where you take a
left. You will have to walk the last km from the
entry gate to the beach, and a small entrance
fee is charged.
Cruising
Many of the boats at anchor in Padang
harbor are cargo vessels, which ply the waters
between here and the Mentawai Islands to the west.
Because of a lack of regular transport, few travelers
ever reach the Mentawai, although cargo boats
leave the harbor almost daily for a four-to ten-day
swing through the islands, delivering 20th-century
goods such as IndoMie (instant noodles) and canned
sardines, in exchange for local products and tribal
handicrafts
Padang Practicalities
For most travelers, Padang served as
a stepping stone on the Minang Highlands. But
Padang itself is a surprisingly clean and pleasant
town with good hotels, decent restaurants and
competent travel agencies. Many government buildings
are constructed in neo-traditional Minang style
with saddleback roofs sweeping outward to form
symmetrical peaks, sometimes as many as 12 in
number.
Getting There
Padang is halfway up Sumatra's West Coast
and is served by a good network of land, air and
sea routes.
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